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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.